One of my favourite capitals is a circle of carved oak leaves – I just love how the stone masons brought nature in from the outside and made the stone come alive.

John Ruskin was a big fan of their bringing the outside in approach in such a free and effortless way. I learned all about his love of medieval sculpture when I visited and researched the amazing Tyntesfield House near Bristol

This is the feeling I wanted to create when I designed my Sussex Oak design – partly inspired by the carvings but also influenced by local patternmaker Peggy Angus who lived not far away. Do visit her archives at The Keep near Brighton if you can. Many of her wonderful prints are boxed up as she left them – she worked with such energy. Partly because she had to (she was a single parent) but also just because she was just that kind of person. She had quite particular views about history and as a teacher designed a wonderful scheme of how each age developed it’s own patterns. She got the students at North London Collegiate School for Girls to paint this as a mural around their art class. She was interested in the meaning behind patterns and this is one of the reasons why she inspires me so much.

My Oak Leaf pattern has been in my mind for over 20 years since I made a little oak leaf print many years ago – sometimes I work very slowly and I just needed the extra time offered by lockdown and my connection to the beautiful church carvings to finally finish the design.

When it came to cut the block I worked in my usual way, cutting and printing and recutting and reprinting until the design had that sense of movement and balance that I seek to create in all my designs.

I printed it onto fabric and paper and because we were in lock down and I had more time, I started to paper our hallway  – the colours made me very happy. I’ve also been printing it onto fabric that I mordant with oak galls that I forage for in the fields around me here in Steyning.

I’m pleased other people like this design – I feel it connects me to the past and also offers some ideas about how we might go forward in the future – making beautiful textiles that are kind to the environment.

The post New design – Sussex Oak appeared first on Sarah Burns Patterns.

During lockdown I’ve had more time to explore and document my pattern making process – and share with other makers too.

I have so enjoyed the online workshops I’ve done with students all over the world – something I would never have expected and which has been a real treat in these other wise quite isolated times.

Sharing time together has been really special and gaining an understanding of their practice and their particular approach to pattern making has been an ongoing source of inspiration to me.

I thought it might be nice to share a few tips from some of things we have learned together.

Firstly, it seems to me that good pattern is all about creating a sense of movement AND balance. This is something the exercises we do together really help to explore. Together we go through a series of sequences that explore repeat print making and all the endless possibilities of the block. This sequence is something I hope students will take away with them and use to expand and develop their pattern making practice.

Space is your friend. Good design is all about learning how to harness negative as well as postive space. Again – in my workshop we spend time exploring the different properies of negative and positive space and how to create the best balance.

As well as exploring the pattern making  I’ve also been helping students to get better results transferring their marks onto fabric.

When printing blocks onto fabric there is a lot to consider including the block, the printing medium, printing bed, fabric and how to best apply the ink – getting all these ingredients right can help you get a great print or not as I have learned from my many mistakes over the years. It’s important to me that I give my students as much technincal help as possible so they can get the print results they deserve.

I really hope to be back teaching physical workshops in my Sussex studio soon but in the meantime if you would like to take your pattern making skills onto the next stage do get in touch by emailing  sarahburnspatterns@gmail.com

Happy patternmaking!

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This is a quick blog to tell you more about dyeing with weld – one of our most ancient and powerful of dye plants. Until the 1930’s it was still commercially grown in this country and I hope one day we will return to it as it is so very generous in colour and so useful as a base for making lots of other colour – most especially green when it is combined with woad.

It’s just coming into season now and is very easy to grow – liking poor soils but you can also find it growing wild along rivers and hedgerows. You can also order it dried from places like George Weil 

1)To begin – chop up the weld. It’s the stems and leaves that  give most colour.

2) Make a bundle and add to an old pan

3) Cover with hot water and gradually bring to the boil – you will smell and see the wonderful yellow seeping through, it’s magic! Keep the dye bath on a simmer as the colour is released from the plant material.

4) Prepare the cloth you want to dye by wetting it thorougly. Then add it to the dye bath.

5) Keep the bath at a simmer and move the cloth around so that it takes the colour evenly.

6) Carry on until you are happy with the colour – remember it will dry a shade lighter.

Do get in touch with any questions. Hope this goes really well for you and you have fun, Sarah x

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Rhubarb is one of my favourite ever plants to dye with and one of the first I ever discovered. I grow lots on my allotment because it is so useful and versatile and ofcourse delicious to eat as well!

To make dye from this plant you need to dig up the root and after cleaning off most of the soil chop it into little pieces – as you do this you will start to smell it’s delicous sweet smell which will continue to scent your fabric.

Once you have chopped up your rubarb you can place it in the centre of a clean piece of fabric – the kind of fabric that will let the dye pass through easily so any kind of light cotton is perfect – I’ve used some old sheeting.

Take your bundle and put in an old pot and cover with boiling water – put it on the heat and let it simmer – you will soon see the golden yellow colour starting to ooze out.

While your dye bath is simmering you can get on with preparing your fabric.

For this demo I’ve used organic calico but you can experiment with a wide range of fabrics – I’ve even dyed nylons and plastics successfully with rhubarb.

Before you add your fabric to the dye pot make sure it’s wetted through thoroughly – this will help it take the dye better.

You can leave your fabric in the dye bath for as long or as little as you like – the longer you leave it the deeper the tones and as with all the best cooking, the slower you take it the better the results will be. This is the colour I got after leaving the fabric in the dye bath overnight (with the heat off of course)

Here is the surprise bit – if you would like to turn your fabric a reddy pink – make up a solution of soda crystals (just add a few tablespoons to a bowl of water and mix well)

then dip your fabric into it. Here you can see the before and after – it’s always magic and takes me by surprise – one of the wonders of natural dyeing!

I do hope this demo gives you a clear step-by-step approach that will give you the confidence to have a go.

Do let me know how you get on with your rhubarb dyeing and get in touch @sarahburnspatterns@gmail.com if you have any questions.

Have fun!

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In the meantime I was thinking about all the really great plants much closer to home which can also make gorgeous colours. I thought I would share some of these ordinary wonderful things with you and show you how you could – very simply make lovely colours from these very common plants.

Here are a few plants which I hope you can get hold of really easily –

From left to right: Dock Leaves, Cow Parsley, Willow leaves and St Johns Wort stalks (that’s the plant with the pretty yellow flowers, also known as Hypericum. It’s leaves have got a very distinctive spicy sweet smell)

If you don’t have a garden I hope you can ask a friend or neighbour if they maybe have some or take a sneaky handful from the park.

All you need to make your natural dyes apart from the plant matter is some fabric and a pot to cook them up in.

First roughly chop up your leaves and stalks with a pair of scissors

Next – grab a pot. You can use one from the kitchen because non of these leaves are harmful and you can give the pot a good scrub out afterwards.

Next – Fill the pot with hot water and bring to the boil. Then reduce the heat and keep on a low simmer.

Now we can prepare your fabric. I’ve used little squares of calico – it’s just been washed. I haven’t used any mordants or anything special beforehand. You can use any spare cotton, linen or silk that you have to hand – just make sure it’s washed and clean.

Wet your fabric first before adding it to the dye bath.

Keep your dye bath hot and keep adding water so that it doesn’t boil dry. Do take the pot off the heat, for example overnight and just let the fabric steep in the dye – this is a great way to extract the colour.

After 24 hours your fabric should look something like this – the Dock leaves have turned the square of calico brown, the Cowparsley has dyed the fabric an almost illuminous yellow, the Willow leaves have given pink and the St John’s Wort stems a lovely browny red.

To finish off – run your fabric under the tap until the water runs clear. This way you know that any excess dye has been removed.

The process is slow but super simple. Once you’ve had a play with little scraps of fabric you could try larger pieces to make handkerchiefs, scarves, napkins, pillowcases….

And you could try leaving the fabric in for even longer – this is really SLOW textiles and the slower you go the better the result.

I do hope this blog makes sense and gives you clear step by step instructions for  dyeing your own fabric with common garden plants – please get in touch if you have any questions.

I really hope you have a go and please let me know how you get on – your results may not be the same as mine as different soils and weathers have an effect on the plant material but I hope you get something that you like X

Have fun X

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This is something I’ve been fascinated by for a very long time and over the years pieces of the jigsaw puzzle have gradually fallen into place. Finally after much trial and error I have developed a simple process of block printing with natural dyes that I’m reasonably confident in and am able to reproduce and share with others, though I still feel I’m very much a beginner. I owe alot to many people who have shared and taught me along the way – most especially Shirley at Handprinted

My process in no way compares with the wonders of Indian block printing. The intricacies of block printing with natural dyes were so very complex that English traders from the East Indian Company were dazzled when they first set eyes on Indian fabrics: layers of colour were laid one upon the other using a complex system of mordants, dyes and resists. It took the Europeans centuries to understand how the Indian craftsmen made their beautiful chinzes and many decades before they were able to replicate pieces that looked a little like them.

I first fell in love with the colour palette of cutch browns, madder reds and indigo blues when I saw the textiles of Phyllis Barron and Dorothy Larcher in the Whitworth Gallery, Manchester many years ago. I started trying to print with onion skins and did get some marks but it was only when I was researching my book into Barron & Larcher 20 years later that I got a few more clues.

Barron and Larcher didn’t leave any technical notes but in her wonderful speech ‘My Life as a Block printer’, Barron describes how after making her first patterns using indigo and nitric acid (not something I am keen to try) she made up a paste of cutch using gum traganth (she compared the gum in it’s raw state to toe nails). I spent a whole winter transcribing Barron’s talk and in the process got to feel quite close to her and the way she worked.

I don’t have a steamer large enough to steam lengths of fabric so I decided to try and work with mordants instead; different mordants fix different kinds of natural dyes allowing you to print with a range of natural print pastes.

When I visited Bagru, the village of printers outside Jaipur in Rajhastan, I discovered how the cloth is first dyed with a tannin so that it can fix the iron dye and how alum is used to fix madder. My process is hardly comparable to the the beautiful and intricate patterns produced in India but I  still enjoy the process – preparing the mordants, fabrics, dye stuffs and pastes. It’s very sensual process that is sensitive to the slightest change and one that always entrances me everytime.

Most importantly for me is the fact that my workshop is becoming less toxic, involving more natural vegetable and plant based dyes and pastes. Not only do I feel safer working around my family and students, gardens, insects and animals, I also feel like I am  making things in a kinder way.

So many things in the textile industry look quite beautiful but when you scatch the surface you discover a toxic and environmentally damaging process that destroys any superficial beauty: I want the things I make to have a positive impact on my environment  – supporting organic farmers and growers and becoming truly beautiful in the process.

I hope this blog  inspires you to think about printing with natural dyes – do get in touch if you would like to have a go at making things in a different way.

All the images here are taken from my book ‘Barron & Larcher – Textile Designers’ and from the Block printing with Natural Dyes workshop that I have run with Alice Garner at Ditchling Museum of Art and Craft and as part of their wonderful Women’s Work show (it’s on until October 2019 so do go if you get the chance) plus from workshops in my own studio – thanks to all the students for their wonderful experimental work.

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It was a fascinating process for me as it was the first time I had a design produced commercially. It was also very special as I was the hand printer working on the sampling table at the wonderful Ivos Print when the design came to be sampled – basically sorting the colour and scale of the final print out. So I got to sample my own design – a real thrill!

Virginia wanted something lacey for her fabric collection and kindly asked me if I could design anything. So I went away, rummaged in my old fabric collection (a fabric black hole) and started work on a woodblock design based on a piece of antique french lace. I didn’t work straight from the lace but made shadows with it, which were slightly wonkier and got under the skin of the pattern a bit more. Doing this gave me the kind of information I needed to start drawing and cutting the block: sometimes it helps to make things look a bit strange first, then you see them in a fresher way.

Once I’d cut the block and taken the print, I scanned the prints and worked to scale up the design using photoshop. Photoshop saves a lot of time scaling up repeats but I’ve never been able to make very good marks with it so always prefer using hand made art work. Then Amelia in the Ivo design studio helped me transfer my print onto a large screen, advised by factory manager and general print genius Podge and produced by screen maker extraordinaire Chris.

This part of the process can be very tricky as you have to balance the hand made marks of the block print with the requirements of the commercial screen printing machinery. Luckily, Ivos have a very skilled team to do this as this would have been impossible for me to do on my own.

When it came to sampling the new design – basically exploring the best colours, scale and materials to print on – I worked with Monique and Jo on the hand-table, and then Chris and Ian took over to print show lengths on their galli machines. Virginia’s bold use of colour was sometimes a bit of a challenge for me, as she often told me she didn’t want anything crafty looking, but this was great as it shifted me out of my comfort zone.

The whole process, taking many months – was a real team effort and opened my eyes to the reality of designing and making – which always involves drawing heavily on the expertise and knowledge of others rather than sitting designing on your own in a little bubble.

The experience also brought together my two different worlds – working as a hand printer at Ivos and producing my own designs. It’s helped me to understand the pressures and constraints of commercial production and overall helped me become a better designer.

Since designing Honor & Honoria, I have produced two more block print designs – ‘Sompting’ and ‘Tirzah’, all available from the Virginia White Collection

Time for lunch time with the factory girls!

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Mostly Chris prints the most amazing designs that use over 10 screens so this single colour was a doddle for him. He even spotted that the repeat is about 1mm out. Chris is our printing guru (just like his dad Podge) and he looks out for Mon and I spotting any mistakes we’re making before we’ve even made it. Naturally we adore him because he’s such a master craftsman and also because he’s so nice.

First Chris prints every other repeat, then he goes down the 50m table a second time and fills in the gaps when the first print is dry. Most days he walks over 10km!!

Here I am looking very pleased at how my little lino cut design has been transformed into a 50m length, something that would take me at least a week to do at home. I remember from when I studied politics, reading an essay by Walter Benjamin called ‘The work of art in the age of mechanical reproduction’ – which wasn’t very kind about processes like this which it claimed destroyed the spirit of the original by endlessly reproducing it…. reproduction does change the original but not necessarily into something less, it can also distill essential parts and help to simplify it as well.

Anyway, as a designer, it’s something very beautiful to watch when your idea becomes reality and you see it being produced and going into peoples homes. I also remember something I think Liubov Popova, the friend of the constructivist designer Vavara Rodchenko and a wonderful painter and designer herself said – how she would far prefer for an ordinary woman to buy 1m of her fabric in a department store than her painting to be hung in a famous gallery and just seen by just a few.

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I have so many happy memories of cycling through this sleepy Sussex village on hot summers day (it never rains on the London to Brighton Bike Ride) – the immense wall of the Downs and Ditchling Beacon looming up before us on our bikes but every year always managing somehow to get to the top with all the bystanders cheering us on and the exhilaration when we got to the top, sunburnt and sweaty.

Then I started coming back to the small museum when I became interested in printing and natural dyeing as the museum had a wonderful letterpress as well as the archive of the pioneering 1930’s weaver Ethel Mairet, who championed natural dying through her seminal work – ‘A Book on Vegetable Dyes’. I even blogged about her on my old unsewn blogspot site back in 2010 http://unsewn.blogspot.co.uk/2010/04/map-of-patterns-gunta-stozl-and-ethel.html

In those days – the museum was a very different place: set up by two elderly sisters Joanna and Hilary Bourne, who had grown up with the children of many of the artists now in the Museums collection – they collected a varied and inspiring collection of artists work, most especially the work of sculptor, wood engraver, type-designer and letter cutter Eric Gill and the calligrapher Edward Johnstone.

It all felt a bit ramshackle – the kind of place that was run by passionate amateurs: clever gentlefolk with fascinating stories to tell while they served you tea and homemade cake, there were always garden flowers in jam jars on the tables… It’s now quite a smart place with lots of dark wood but the wonderful paintings, carvings and weavings are still there and so are the lovely volunteers. The Museum also boasts a fantastic shop full of beautiful things, including my Dora Fabrics washbags, tea-towels and aprons. It’s great to see them there – my attempt to follow Ethel Mairet’s  exhortation to make great colour – naturally.

Here are some wise words from her ‘A Book on Vegetable Dyeing’:

‘Dyeing has almost ceased to exist as a traditional art in this 20th century and the importance of colour on our lives seems to be realised less and less. It has been forgotten that strong and beautiful colour, such as used to abound in everyday things, is an essential to the full joy of life…We fear bright colour because most of our traditional colours are bad and they are bad because the tradition of dyeing has been broken. If any craft worker wants sound colour he must make it for himself….It may be objected that life is not long enough but the handicrafts are out to create more life, not out to produce quality nor to save time…’

I am only too aware of this as I write this blog I have 3 dye pots boiling away on the stove but no meal to feed the children as supper time looms closer…

Joanna and Hilary’s had a great dictum which also chimes with me – “the most important things to learn in order to survive are how to grow things, how to make things and how to cook.”

The exhibition at Two Temple Place in London –  Modernism in Retreat shows how artists like Gill, Johnson and Mairet were looking for solitude and sanctuary in rural Sussex but I felt that it doesn’t tell the other half of the story nearly so well: how they used their seclusion to shape a powerful and radical influence on modern day England – branding the tube network with his distinctive lettering for Frank Pick in the case of Johnson and Gill carving Prospero for the new BBC building on Portland Place (a scandal because he wore no underwear under his smock as he stood on the scaffolding chiselling away.) Mairet herself encouraged other important women designers like the block printers Phyllis Barron and Dorothy Larcher and the weaver Elizabeth Peacock as well as establishing a successful workshop and business herself which attracted international designers like the Bauhaus weaver like Gunta Stotzl (they wove South Downs wool and cellophane together).

The Museum of Arts and Crafts at Ditchling have also got a show on at the moment celebrating Ethel Mairet’s wonderful recipes for natural colour. Me along with many other dyers have had a go some of her recipes with some very different results… I experimented with the bark of the alder tree and discovered a lovely grey. Do go and have a look at the exhibition if you get a chance.

I’m running some more of my own Wild Textile workshops this May, where we will be foraging for seasonal plants and flowers near my home in the South Downs, not far from Ditchling and making our own wild colour.

If you’re interested in nature, colour and fabric and most of all like playing and experimenting – this is the workshop for you. You’ll get to learn how to create your own wild colour sourcebook as well as a final piece combing your favourite colours and techniques to take away. The workshop costs £80 for 2 days with all materials included and you will learn how to make your own natural dyes using foraged plants, make mud resist patterns with indigo and experiment with a larger piece to take home with you.

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